The elegant and very Historic Old School Ristorante
Buca San Petronio
located Via de'Musei 2/4; Bologna BO 40124

I had such fun learning about the Historic Importance of Buca San Petronio from the Capo, Maurizio Gerosa and his chef, Francesco. Maurizio is so focused on details, such as the intense renovation of the Buca San Petronio in 2005 that took almost one year. That, along with his passionate interest in the finest ingredients native to the Reggio Emilia area of Italy, make a visit to Buca San Petronio, one steeped in ancient traditions, worthwhile.
"My partner, David, and I had owned the top nightclubs in Milan for over 30 years, and when we bought the ristorante in 2005, we wanted to have something for curiosity of the culture of the ancient city of Bologna. It is for visitors and for the people of Bologna. I used the interior designer, Max Vittorio from Milan,
to invent and design the diamond glass for the wine collection and the gold sheaf wall. He designed the entire bar area, too, and I love the way he ties it all together with modern aesthetics yet using the shape and historic materials of the original building."
"The Elegance of the Building & Location,
the Italian hospitality & respect for service,
and the Hearty portions of traditional Bologna food,
is Buca San Petronio."
-Maurizio Gerosa

With its premium location, looking onto the Palazzo del Podestà, near the historic Piazza Maggiore, the terrace seating is much sought after from the tourists who flock to Bologna for its interesting food scene. Known today as the "foodie capitol of Italy," people come out of curiosity.
Francesco laughs when I tell him that.
"I don't know why. All that Bologna has made is Lasagna, Bolognesi Ragu, Tortellini & Tagliatelle. That is all that we're known of. I could think of many other Italian cities that would be the food capitol of Italy. Maybe it is just the weaving cobblestoned streets from the Roman Empire that have little trattorias or osterias lined up on them that make Bologna so fascinating to the visitors."
Francesco gave me, under Maurizio's orders, a small pot of Bolognese Ragu with two big, huge "croutons" that were slices of bread toasted, to dip in the little pot.
"That is typical what you will receive in Bologna when you visit your Nona's house. You sit down and she gives you the ragu to dip bread in." says Allessio, who is my friendly and funny server. It is amazing.

"Bologna doesn't use much tomato in the sauce here, it is more or a mixture of meat." Francesco informs me and it is now my favorite sauce it the world.
My second is the artichoke, which is huge. And very delicate to eat. And my plate of tortellini in broth is now my main meal in the city.
Yet my ultimate favorite is a fried cake that Francesco made for me, and it is a fruit cake. Am I the only person in the world who LOVES fruit cake? Every Christmas as a cheerleader, we had to sell fruit cakes to earn money for our team's uniforms. I always bought all of the these myself because I ate them all.

Francesco, while not being the best Public Relations person for the "foodie crowd" of Bologna, sure knows how to make homemade Nona style tortellini in broth.
"My intention and David's is to focus on the reputation of Buca San Petronio. The quality of service, attention to the smallest detail and its finest ingredients from the Region. As Francesco said, the chef of a restaurant uses his hands and his heart to create. Every recipe from a Nona's kitchen will taste differently on your plate. I want the reputation of the restaurant to bring international visitors specifically to Bologna to our restaurant. And I want the local people of Bologna to know they can have an elegant night out with their beloved recipes served here."

We also have to say hi to Roly, who along with Alessio, were my servers for the evening. A couple of 4 tops came in while I was dining and the soft music with the mixture of English and Italian conversation made it just perfect.

I know you will love the healthy portions of food. I must warn you they give you a lot of food! Yet, it is the warm authentic friendly and kind Italian hospitality that will win you over.
And you sit in an ancient building of around the late 1300s. What more could you ask of the city of Bologna!
"Bologna is so very special to Italy because of its regional significance in food and its location. You can reach Rome, Venice, Milan and Florence all within 2 hours or less. It has the oldest university still in existence in all of Europe and it has a thriving university scene. A mixture of residents that have been here centuries to international students discovering and enjoying the rich cultural scene brings a healthy vibe to the city. And its Italian," says Maurizio.
I laugh when he says that. "Yes, it is very Italian, " I say. "And that is why I love it."
I am having such a great time discovering the intricacies of what makes Bologna Italian. I love that everybody I meet seems to be either from here originally or from the neighboring regions.
It is a jewel that has such a vibrant nightlife and enriching culture events every day. The food is amazing. It is hearty, just like from your grandmother or grandfather's kitchen, in Bologna's case. As soon as people from around the world discover Bologna, there is no turning back!

2.
VaMoLa Ristorante
Via dei Moline 3
And so begins the story of Giovanni & his library bookstore about 12 years now. He used to come to the library here as a young boy, his girlfriend is new to town and he buys her his old library. They spend 6 months, the 2 of these very creative people, and they paint, they build and knock down walls and have the most creative wine and library around.
Giovanni laughs when he tells the story of how the kitchen just kept getting bigger and bigger.
"I had never thought to open a trattoria. I wasn't trained in that field and so my little idea of doing a wine library was about as far as my vision had gone. Now, I am proud to say that I designed and opened 10 restaurant/trattorias in 10 years and have shaped and kept 5. I guess you would say that I feel I am a culinary entrepreneur now!"

I fell in love with the rustic decor and the authenticity of the trattoria, before I even knew the story of how it was made.
I love books and when Matteo, the director, told me that I could take any book, and yes, they have some English books, and sit wherever I wanted to read it, I totally knew it was my favorite place to be!
Yet Bologna, itself, is exemplified here. It is an ancient city, but not a medieval city, like Sienna. It has a peaceful, intellectual vibe to it. Yet it is very village like. A huge city, but a small provincial feel. Bologna seems to have been the same for centuries and I hope that with all the foodies around the world clamoring to come taste the Bologna & Reggio Emilia traditional recipes, they will keep it ancient.
"So, at first I thought reopening my childhood library
was a good idea,"
-Giovanni
So starts the story of Giovanni's bookstore, wine enoteca, cultural center, and now, real ristorante where you can enjoy any book freely.
Giovanni says, "When I was growing up, libraries/bookstores were the place to go to socialize, too. And to buy books, which people read. But now I was competing with the very big bookstores and so people didn't really want to buy books. So, I thought, okay, let's serve wine and books. That is a very bohemian cool idea. So, that was pretty good at first. But people didn't really want to buy the books, just read them with the wine and perhaps steal the books. Which happened, a lot!"
Giovanni laughs, "So, at first that is a very good idea. Then people asked to have something to eat. I didn't have a kitchen, so I had one pasta dish: tagliatelle that you usually, in Bologna, 12 years ago, make in your home. Nobody really goes out to eat tagliatelle, like the tourists do now. So, we serve only tagliatelle for one year. That is pretty good. And then, we have a bigger kitchen, and a bigger kitchen and I organize cultural events EVERY night. Book readings, lectures, poetry sessions, skits, and all sorts of cultural events to involve the community. I realized I loved doing that." 
"Yet my daughter is 4 years old as the years progressed and I had to be a dad. I couldn't physically be here every day and night doing cultural events and my young team was more interested in serving food and wine to my guests. So that finally evolved into the bookcases filled with books you can read in every room and every nook and cranny and drink a glass of wine or eat dinner. Now, we have many people."

The Art Gallery & the Ristorante of Volando
Where the focus is Reggio Emilia recipes
and art of Italian masters.
The Art Gallery and the Ristorante were born together. Giovanni worked with Studiiolo Fine Art of Milan, to make the aesthetic feel of being in an actual Art Gallery. And, well you are. Sometimes people ask if they can just browse the rooms, and while diners eat their traditional Reggio Emilia food, they have people mingling in and out of the tables.
"Each of these pieces I choose myself," tells Giovanni. "I had a certain design to my ristorante in mind, and I didn't just want art hanging on the wall. I am very grateful for Guido Cribiori for his trust in me and my choices. He said to choose any of the pieces I wanted, regardless of the price. Yet I didn't know if a guest coming to eat my 20-euro Tagliatelle with Bolognese Ragu would purchase a 15,000-euro painting, to be honest."
"

"Food and wine;"
"Culture and Memory:
"The taste of cuisine,
and art "
"hand in hand,"
Are just some of the quotes
of Giovanni Favia, when
speaking of his Volando.
The Creative side of Giovanni Favia shows itself with the placement of his tables of Volando, themselves sculptures, in his Art Gallery/Ristorante. The Art pieces hanging on the walls of Volando are in collaboration with Guido Cribiori of the Resprected Milan Art Gallery, Studiolo Fine Art.
The kitchen is "nonna" style. Yet, to be fair to every restaurant in Bologna, all of them serve typical "nonna" recipes. The difference here is the "nonna'.
"Every Grandmother's kitchen is different. Same recipes and completely different tastes," says Giovanni.
"Along with the precious art that you are totally surrounded by, I want to mention that all of my pasta is homemade in my laboratory in Bologna. Everyday we make our own pasta for all of our restaurants and several others in Bologna and deliver it. That is very important to me, and something I am insistent on and proud of."

Giovanni's second ristorante, A Balus, is very special to him.
"Whereas VaMoLa sort of just created itself and originally was a thought of keeping my childhood memories of my library that I went to as a young kid, A Balus is a very precise well thought out plan of actually opening a real ristorante." 
"I guess because A bulas is my first real ristorante, I have a special fondness for it. It is an elegant place and a place that I come, myself, when I want to do dinner out. It is calm, refined and sophisticated."
The Tortellini in Broth, a simple dish around the world, is my ultimate favorite here. It is a rebirth of my childhood memories, too, of my own Italian "nonna" making these in her kitchen while my other siblings took swimming lessons opposite her home. My father would come and pick us up everyday and say, "Mamma! I told you, don't let her make tortellini. She needs to learn how to swim!"
And yet, very Old-fashioned elegance. 

The Man and The Sea
Ristorante
When you are named the best Seafood Restaurant in Bologna along with the Ristorante with the Best Wine List, you must be doing something right. The minute you walk into The Man and The Sea, you'll enter an elegantly furnished and detailed upscale ristorante and then you'll see the two little white fluffy dogs curled up on the light blue velvet couches at the entrance. I think they are Maltese, but I could be wrong. Either way, they're adorably dressed in little coats of colors and they snuggle very quietly all day long. Visitors always want to sit at the front lounge tables and cuddle with them! As the British trio yesterday did having their aperitivos.
It is a seafood high-end ristorante that is easy to feel comfortable and elegant in at the same time.
I am happily entertained chatting with Amin, who owns The Man and The Sea, on Thursday afternoon.
In between him serving the guests in the back room, personally attending each one at the 35-seat ristorante, chatting and making aperitivo surprises for his British guests in the lounge with me and telling me his story, I learned a lot about his journey.
You notice the unique collection of bottles at the bar. Every one is rare and chosen with a memory to it and I ask Amin if it took him the entire 5 years to choose.
"Yes, I chose each one because I like it. From travel, from tasting, from friends. My ristorante is all about the detail. I am very focused on making it mine and something to share experiences with. I, myself, am a sommelier and I attend Vinitaly in Verona every year, too. So, my wine list of over 350 labels is extensive and focused. That is why we have received the Best Wine list of any ristorante in Bologna."

Today, on Friday at lunch, I meet his executive chef, Mark, who is from the Philippines and tells me his entire team is Philippine. "I was trained 5 years now, from Amin's first chef who was very experienced in the culinary arts but retired. I learned much from him, and having grown up at the city of Pangasinan, which is known for it being the fishing capital of the Philippines and where the most (bangus) or milkfish are located, I know how to cook seafood. Milkfish is the National fish of the Philippines. I learned to cook while I was young and now, I have 3 children from the age of 15 to 6 and they all love to cook with me," says Mark.
He also tells me that his name is funny because his first name is a very normal American name and his last name is Spanish because of the Spanish influence on the Philippines and if anybody would only know his name but not him personally they would never know he is Philippine! Cultures are funny.

Today, the adorable little dogs hid under the coats, so I put mine near them in case they wanted a little variety.
Amin laughs when every person who walks in gushes over the little dogs first.
"Yes, I take care of my friend's dogs, and they are very quiet and love to just cuddle there. They sit there from morning to night."
Amin starts his day, by the way, with 7:00 am phone calls to the seafood auction houses in Venice and on the Mediterranean coast. 
"I choose whatever catch of the day they have, and of course I find the items we need for our daily menu. I trust my suppliers and they immediately have these driven to me. They usually arrive about 9:00 am, and that is where chef comes in and inspects the seafood and starts the preparation. I order the seafood and I let my chef create. It is a good system!" he laughs. "It is always fun to taste what he makes, too. That is the good part."
Amin tells me that he admired and respected his head chef and kept all of the recipes yet lets Mark be creative in his interpretation and so most have modern twists to them. They're amazing, as you can see, and the shrimp that I had in my seafood salad today was the most tender I have ever had.
Not really a "salad", more of an experience, as Amin takes the sealed jar that is prepared as you order it, shakes it in front of you, as if making a famous cocktail and pours the entire contents of fresh exquisite seafood onto your plate that has colorful homemade croutons scattered about.
"Every item is fresh,
caught that day & brought to your table.
The Chef prepares your order as it is placed.
Sea, Caught, Eaten."
-Amin
"The secret is to be simple.
Know that each fish is different.
How to bring the flavor of each
to the table,
In a delicate way, is the secret."
-Mark, from Phillipines
As I am enjoying my seafood salad and trying not to eat the multi-colored homemade bread put in front of me, although with that I shall fail, they bring the catch of the day, a St. Peter's fish from the Mediterranean, to show me before bringing it to a guest's table. It is very big and Amin tells me that it is a dish for 2. 

Peruvian Tapas Cocktail Bar

"My restaurant, Buca San Petronio, is a place where you can experience authentic Bologna recipes, but for the people of Bologna and for visitors around the world, sometimes you want something mysterious and exotic, so I redesigned the lounge to reflect the recipes and culture of the Peruvian people," says Maurizio about his 1 week old baby, Nu Lounge Bar. 
For Adult playtime after work, a late night dinner or aperitivo buffet.

RosaRose Bistrot at Via Clavature 18B
has been opened since 1988 with the coolest chandeliers,
Frenchy Bistro atmosphere yet PURE BOLOGNESE CUISINE
THAT is made with naturalness and love.


The first thing that you will notice is the friendliness of the team as you walk in the door and then your attention will be drawn immediately to the chandeliers. A lot of chandeliers.
The director laughs and says, "Yes, the owner loves chandeliers."
So, you sit under these precious accessories, at a checkered table clothed table and as eclectic as it all is; the music, the decor, the authentic Italian hospitality, the minute the food arrives, you feel like you're dining in their house! Home cooked meals. 
With the freshest handmade plates made to order and hearty original recipes served to you at a casual table, the food is straight from the Italian Grandmother and Grandfather's kitchen of Bologna. I say Grandfather's too, because although all the capos tell you it is from Nona's recipes, all the Cuocos are men!

When I talked to Antonio, he was very proud of the fact that he had the vision to try to shape his publicity to include the world.
It is very important for him to have the world know that Bologna is the hub of tortellini, lasagna, tagliatelle alla Bolognese-the ultimate comfort food, and all from Bologna. We wouldn't even have lasagna in the world if it wasn't for the city of Bologna. So, please add Bologna to your cultural map of regional original recipes for all of you international foodies!
For Antonio it isn't about the glitz and glamour. Along with Mario, who is a real gentleman and has been a restauranteur in Bologna since 1987. The importance is humble and simple: to be true to the recipes and traditions of the Reggio Emilia region and in particular, Bologna.
And with the fresh pasta made at one of the sister restaurants that the Owners have, you're given the choice of gluten-free fresh or wheat pasta, with every dish.
One of the most varied Gluten-free options in all of Bologna.

Clive T. - Clavature
CLAVATURE Via Clavature 17 C
Antonio tells me that Clavature is his first restaurant where he partnered with Mario in 2006. I visited Clavature and met the very kind Capo/Director, Mario.
"I have been here in the restaurant environment of Bologna my entire life. I was born here and I have made my life here. It is a simple life and one that I love. I love my guests, and I love for them to enjoy my cooking. That is it. To serve my guests the freshest ingredients with the best from Reggio Emilia and to give my visitors from other countries a taste of Bologna. The business here is up and down. I don't know why that is, but it seems to be that way everywhere in Italy, except perhaps Rome. It is easy to plan your day if you own a restaurant in Rome, because the tourism is always there. Yet, here in Bologna, it is difficult in the slow months because we are not a major tourism city. We have our historically sites and the oldest university in Europe, although there is another in southern Italy that makes the claim of being around the 12th century, too, so we do have some important institutions to visit. However, I believe in my heart that the biggest draw for the world to come to Bologna is the food. The original recipes of Reggio Emilia," says Mario.
The kitchen makes all of its own plates handmade every day, including Gluten free pasta portions of all varieties. Very cool as they have a kitchen dedicated just for that. Super friendly funny team of Mario, Mauro and Maurizio. I nicknamed them the M&Ms.

The homemade Lasagna from Bologna.
What strikes me as unusual & very, very pleasant is that fact that all of Mario and Antonio's staff seem to be Italian. In a huge melting pot of Italy, for some odd reason, Bologna, which is a very big city, has retained its authentic culture and traditions. A hidden 12th century jewel of original real customs and hospitality.
Ristorante GRASSILLI
Via Dal Lusso 3
The First owner, Mr. Grassilli, opened his ristorante in 1944. It looks almost identical as the pictures here, except for the addition of a piano, of course. The beauty of the historic, very authentic Bolognese Ristorante is unparalleled in terms of old-world charm. And the boss, Jacque, has been here since he started in the kitchen as the Cuoco in 1976. Now his son, Genevieve, a very shy cook, is the head of the kitchen.
I had the ultimate pleasure of sitting down with Jacque and his translator, Luca, to hear his story, once again. I had interviewed Jacque about 12 years ago, and he says he remembers me only by my charming mannerisms. Okay, he said my mannerisms, yet I added charming.
"I was young, 22, when I started here as a cook. I had met my wife, who is from Bologna, in Switzerland and followed her to her home country. I had never been a cook, yet I learned how to do the Bolognese recipes and I absolutely loved it. I knew that is what I needed to do with my life."
Begins the eloquent, beautiful love story of tradition.
You will sit among the Luciano Pavarotti pictures, and all of the great opera and theater stars of the day.
You will not see the cook!
"My son is very shy. His domain, and he is excellent in the kitchen, is the kitchen. He loves his work and he is so very focused. He wouldn't come to a table, if I asked him. He loves to create the food he serves you as the host. Me? I spent 17 years in the kitchen and bought the restaurant. Now, I LOVE my guests. I love to come to the table and I love being front of the house. We're a good match!" 
A beautiful plate & one of the French dishes. 
"You know back in the day, Grassilli was THE place for celebrities and the jet set of Bologna. We don't really have an "old-school" jet set any longer, as Bologna has evolved into a somewhat known foodie city and the tourists are all coming. Yet back in the day, you had to be seen here at Grassilli," says Jacque.
I asked him if he missed these days.
"Yes, definitely, the feel of ristorante, the formality mixed with the simple very good food of Bologna. I do miss the dressing up, as now we are more casual to blend with the times. My servers are still very respectful and attentive, yet we know that the visitors are not expecting white glove service." 
But what they are expecting is the good old-fashioned recipes such as the tortellini in broth.
'And, I would say that my menu has been and is now, a mixture of French and Italian, as I am from Switzerland. My son has his own twists, of course, yet we keep the tradition and we use the finest ingredients from Reggio Emilia, and that is very important."

Refinement, Old-World Charm, Traditional Bologna Recipes with French Influence.
Since 1944: Grassilli

Now I shall tell you about Antonio, Mario & the rest of his team in Bologna, and how he built his vision and empire to welcome international visitors to the culture of Bologna, Italy.
Antonio has 15 restaurants, if you count London, and range from fine dining to gelatos. Yet, his London Gelatos are homemade Italian "ice cream" and definitely much sought after if you've never had real Italian Gelato before.
MATTERELLO Ristorante in LONDON & BOLOGNA
located at 3 Middlesex, London City, & Via Degli Orefici, Bologna
Okay, we have the London Location and the Bologna Location
on the site here. The important item to remember is that Antonio literally brought
his culture and his recipes from the Bologna region to London. He holds events at that London location for all of his loyal Italians in the city and of course for visitors, too.
The Freshest Homemade Pasta daily & gluten free. Bringing the culture of Bologna, Italy to London. With live music by Francesca Monte and cultural events for Italians in London, MATTERELLO strengthens its social & cultural hub for the community making it an experience in dining and Italian experiences. 
The MATTERELLO team is built on trust and community involvement and welcomes all of their loyal guests to come and enjoy an Italian evening of fresh authentic Bologna recipes in a warm and friendly atmosphere..
FRANCESCA MONTE Music Nights.

While most of the homemade pasta for the Bologna location is made in La Capriata or the Clavature Bistrot, London makes theirs on site. 

However, the wine here, from Reggio Emilia, is just a vineyard away!
Antonio is "Old-School" and the
most important items for him
is that visitors know his ingredients
are from the region of Reggio Emilia
and are of the highest quality.

The location in Bologna, Italy is right in the middle of the Trattorias and Osterias with visitors lining up at open windows for the freshest cheeses or pasta to take home. You can find Max, who is super friendly and knowledgeable about the ingredients used in all of the homemade plates that they serve and happy to chat with you. If you're lucky, Max can translate what the director, Cali, or the owner, Antonio, is saying as they speak predominantly Italian. Antonio is credited with being the entrepreneur who first started shaping Bologna's international tourist scene in 2006.
Maxwell & Cali-the Director
of Matterello Bologna.

Antonio's restaurants all have the best Italian food. Huge portions and a feel good Italian meal is what you'll receive. The fact that all of their gluten free or normal pastas are handmade every day and they're cooked and served to order, is a given. But when you see and taste the food, you'll know why you came to Bologna, where the original recipes all come from. 

Whatever way you want to compliment the Italians, saying they're here on earth for a good time is probably one of the greatest compliments, o and the food. Did we mention the food?
La Capriata
Strada Maggiore 19; Corte Isolani
La Capriata is Antonio's "fine dining" jewel in Bologna. It is tucked away a couple of hundred feet from the Towers in the Center of Bologna down Strada Maggiore and inside the arch of the Corte Isolani. It's worth finding, even though it is hidden. 

And have I mentioned, playful? It is Italian, so although the restaurant is the fine dining gem, the team is playful and fun. However, very serious about people sensitive to gluten.
Alessandra, "We have a kitchen dedicated strictly for gluten free products, pasta & homemade bread. The kitchen, I would say, has perfected the recipes and everybody tells us that they can't tell the difference between normal pasta or the gluten free that we make."
It's true. Amazing & Delicious.

Bologna has 3 nicknames:
The Learned One, due to its claim on the oldest university in Europe; the fat one for its delicious cuisine and the red one due to its many tiled roofs of that color.
White linen tablecloths, and a sophisticated relaxing atmosphere; that with the Capo, Antonio, is always welcoming rather than intimidating, and homemade pasta every day on site, is La Capriata. 

Charm,
Elegance,
Refinement.

The Original Bologna Recipes,
including the Lasagna,
have made it on the Menu
of La Capriata.
Antonio is very proud of his heritage and culture of Bologna as the "food capitol" of Italy.
"Reggio Emilia is known worldwide for its rich & seductive culinary traditions, and here in Bologna, known for its fresh homemade EGG pasta, like tortellini & tagliatelle & the original birthplace of Lasagna.
In Sicily, the spaghetti is not made with egg. That is the difference. And Reggio Emilia is home of Parma Ham and Parmesan Cheese; Modena is home of Balsamic Vinegar and Mortadella, a typical Bologna sausage.
A glass of Italian white wine, tortellini in broth,
tagliatelle ragu, & balanzoni.
